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“时尚之王”老佛爷离世,他曾说:我活在今天,快乐的当下
来源:CNN,卫报,每日邮报,Vogue官网,环球网    日期: 2019-02-20

传奇设计大师、香奈儿CHANEL艺术总监,被国内时尚界尊称为“老佛爷”的卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)于当地时间2月19日去世,享年85岁。

 

Legendary fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld has died in Paris, France, at the age of 85.

 

 

据《每日邮报》报道,有消息称老佛爷此前一直与胰腺癌作斗争,这周一刚刚入院,周二就离世了……

 

Lagerfeld had been suffering from pancreatic cancer, and passed away on Tuesday after being rushed to hospital, a source said.

 

这位出生于德国的香奈儿艺术总监,在最近几个月来日渐憔悴。一贯喜欢在秀场结束后登台鞠躬的他,却缺席了上个月在巴黎举办的一场香奈儿高定秀。不少人猜测他身体抱恙,而官方的解释是卡尔只是太累了。

 

(2018年10月,外媒镜头下没有戴墨镜的老佛爷。Lagerfeld at Chanel’s spring/summer 2019 show in Paris last October. Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP )

 

The German-born artistic director for Chanel had looked increasingly frail in recent months, and did not come out to take a bow at Chanel's couture show in Paris in January, something the company attributed to him being 'too tired'.  

 

(老佛爷缺席的香奈儿2019春夏高定秀)

 

当地时间19日,香奈儿品牌官方也确认了卡尔·拉格斐离世的消息,并发出了媒体公告表示悼念。文中还透露香奈儿精品部创意工作室总监、与卡尔·拉格斐紧密工作三十余年的 Virginie Viard将接替他的工作,并传承他的精神与理念。

 

 

晚些时候,芬迪FENDI品牌官方微博发声,“Karl Lagerfeld,感谢您为我们带来的无数经典!一代传奇,致敬永远!”

 

 

卡尔个人同名品牌也在官网首页进行悼念:“谢谢你,卡尔。永远爱你的,你的团队。”

 

 

说起“老佛爷”,我们总会想起黑墨镜、银发小辫子、手套、白衬衫和黑西装。那是他的标志特征,也是他独特的个人魅力。

 

而为何老佛爷总是常年戴墨镜,这个视频里他本人给出了答案(里面还有他早年的珍贵影像):

 

(视频来源:@梨视频)

 

他曾说:“优雅是一种态度。”

 

 

在时尚界,“老佛爷”是无可取代的。他是香奈儿的灵魂,是“时尚之王”。

 

《卫报》这样评价:“卡尔·拉格菲:创造了香奈儿神话的时尚舞台之王”

 

 

《Vogue》杂志昨日在官网发表文章,怀念这位传奇设计师:

 

 

The longest fashion journey ended today. Karl Lagerfeld has died, taking with him more than half a century of visionary fashion, which was both free and inclusive. A self-taught master, he referred to himself as a “complete improvisation.” He was a liberated and creative spirit who followed only his instincts, which never failed him. He will forever be associated with the French label Chanel, and it was there that he created some of the most iconic silhouettes of our time. His designs were the epitome of French elegance - a vision that he shared with the whole world. He approached each collection as though it were his first, and made all of his talent available to his team. He was liberated from the past but had no aspirations to dictate the future. In his own words, “La mode, c’est éphémère”.

“最漫长的时尚旅程于今天结束了。卡尔·拉格斐去世了,带着他半个多世纪、极具远见、自由且包容的时尚。卡尔是位自学成才的大师,他称自己的作品为“彻头彻尾的即兴创作”。他拥有自由且充满创造力的灵魂,只追随自己的直觉,从未失败过。他将永远与法国品牌香奈儿紧密相连。而正是为香奈儿,他创造出了许多我们这个时代最具代表性的剪影。他的设计是法国式高雅的缩影——而他将这种美与全世界分享。他凭初心完成他的每一系列设计,并与团队分享他的全部天赋。他从过去解脱出来,却没有指示未来的愿望。用他自己的话来说就是:‘时尚,转瞬即逝’。”

 

CNN在悼文中这样写到:卡尔·拉格菲被时尚圈称为“时尚之王”名副其实。

 

There is a reason why Karl Lagerfeld, who has died at the age of 85, was called the emperor - or "Kaiser" in his native German - by fashion insiders.

 

毕竟,他曾是世界最著名的时尚设计师,同时也是三个时尚王国的灵魂。

 

After all, he was one of the world's most iconic fashion designers, at the heart of not one, not two, but three fashion houses.

 

1954年,拉格菲获得国际羊毛局举办的设计大赛大衣组一等奖,他的时尚天赋被当时的评委——法国设计师皮埃尔·巴尔曼看中,随后,拉格菲进入巴尔曼品牌担任助理。Lagerfeld after winning the coats category in a design competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat, Paris, December 1954. With him is a model wearing his design. The competition win led to Lagerfeld being hired as assistant to Pierre Balmain)

 

(戴墨镜前的老佛爷在他巴黎公寓办公桌前。Before the sunglasses: Lagerfeld is seen sitting on the edge of his desk in his Paris apartment )

 

从1965年起卡尔·拉格斐担任Fendi的首席设计师。自1983年起他开始担任香奈儿首席设计师。

 

(90年代初,在香奈儿的工作让他荣获了时装界摇滚明星的地位。Certain style: By the 1990s he had earned rockstar status in the fashion work for his work with Chanel  )

 

(除了墨镜,老佛爷还对扇子情有独钟)

 

1984年,他推出了个人同名品牌 KARL LAGERFELD(卡尔·拉格斐)。

 

老佛爷个人同名品牌在伦敦的首家店面。Lagerfeld's first eponymous London store)

 

以老佛爷本人和他的爱猫作为设计的迷你玩偶。Mini-Karls Lagerfeld tokidoki dolls complete with cat)

 

这位掌管香奈儿超过30年的男人,将艺术天分与商业敏锐融会贯通,在2017年就已让这款巴黎品牌达到了上百亿美元的价值。

 

The man who steered Chanel for more than 30 years combined artistic flair with business acumen which would see the Parisian label's sales reach $10bn (£7.7bn) in 2017.

 

然而拉格菲的品牌已经超越了商业,融入了他个人生活的方方面面。

 

But Lagerfeld's brand reached beyond his business ventures and into every aspect of his life.

 

在2011年他曾对CNN调侃道:

 

我就是行走的商标我的名字是‘商标菲Labelfeld’,而不是‘拉格菲Lagerfeld’。”

 

"I'm a walking label," he told CNN in 2011. "My name is Labelfeld not Lagerfeld."

 

 

他把一辈子都献给了工作和创作

 

老佛爷生前一直保持着高强度的工作。

 

除了时装设计,老佛爷还时常充当摄影师的角色,为品牌拍摄大片。

 

(2012年11月,Karl Lagerfeld个人摄影展。)

 

然而,他从未感到辛苦,一直乐在其中。

 

《卫报》一篇采访曾这样写到:他魅力十足且彬彬有礼,而对于他人尽皆知的高强度工作量(每年17个系列的新设计,包括同时为香奈儿、芬迪及个人品牌设计),他曾这样说:“如果你喜欢你做的事,你就不会计较。”

 

But he's charming and courteous and says of his infamous workload (which stands at 17 collections a year and includes designing for Chanel, Fendi and his own line): "If you like what you do, you don't count."

 

拉斐尔对创作保持着难以置信的热情和无止境的想象力,但这个男人本人却从未满足过。他曾说:“我从未对我正在做的事儿心满意足过。”

Despite such hunger for Lagerfeld and his relentless imagination, the man himself is never satisfied. "I'm never happy and pleased with what I'm doing".

 

(图源:Vogue官网)

 

他总能知道如何紧跟市场,虽然他一般只会提到下一款服装设计将会很“时髦”,或下一场高定秀将会更“疯狂”。

 

He already knows how he will follow up the supermarket he says, although he won't be drawn into discussion other than to say that couture will be "chic" and the next ready-to-wear show will be even "wilder".

 

他曾说:“我一直都觉得自己是个懒人,或许我还可以做得更好。我可以再努点力,而且我总觉得有一面我无法穿过的玻璃墙存在。不过或许当我能穿过去时,那一切也就结束了。”

 

"I always think I'm lazy, maybe I could do better, I could make more effort and I always have the feeling that there is a glass wall that I cannot get through. But maybe when I get through, then it's over."

 

 

80多岁时,当别人在这个年纪都已退休,老佛爷仍旧热情的投入每一天的工作,每一场大秀。

 

关于退休,他曾这样说:

 

为什么我要停止工作?如果我不再工作,我会死的,一切就都完了。我很幸运能在最完美的条件下工作。我可以在任何领域做我想做的事……停止工作我就太蠢了,只有工作才能让人生不无聊。

 

"Why should I stop working? If I do, I'll die and it'll all be finished. I'm lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas… I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."

 

(2015年香奈儿秋冬秀上,卡尔与模特 “肯豆”Kendall Jenner及他最欣赏的模特之一Cara。Karl Lagerfeld poses with Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne during the Chanel AW show in March 2015)

 

(卡尔近年来还为香奈儿发掘了一些新面孔,包括暮光女”克里斯汀·斯图尔特、星二代Lily Rose Depp等新星。图为三人于2017年合作时拍摄。Karl cherry-picked a host of models to work closely with Chanel over the years, including Kristen Stewart and Lily-Rose Depp pictured together in December 2017)

 

(2018年12月,卡尔·拉格菲在香奈儿于纽约大都会博物馆举办的特展上现身。Lagerfeld walks the runway with godson Hudson Kroenig, right, at Chanel Metiers D'Art 2018 19 Show at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on in December 2018 in New York City)

 

一代传奇离去,他们都很心痛

 

这两天随着卡尔去世的消息传出,曾与香奈儿有过合作或与老佛爷本人关系亲密的名人,都纷纷在instagram等社交媒体上发出图文进行悼念。

 

范思哲设计师多娜泰拉·范思哲在instagram发布了一张她与老佛爷的合照并配文:“Karl你的天才触动了无数人,包括詹尼(范思哲品牌创始人詹尼·范思哲)和我。我们永远不会忘记你无与伦比的才能和永无止境的灵感。我们一直都在向你学习。”

 

 

英国歌手、主持人莉莉·艾伦:“你让我觉得自己就是公主。我一直不太清楚你到底看中了我哪一点,但我会永远感激你和香奈儿在过去15年间给我的支持。”

 

 

德国模特、演员Diane Kruger: “我这周来法国本想见你并向你介绍我的女儿,我太心碎我来迟了。请安息吧。我爱你。”

 

 

曾与老佛爷有过合作的中国明星也在社交媒体发文怀念。

 

刘雯在朋友圈和ins都发文回忆并哀悼:

 

 

身为香奈儿的代言人,周迅也发文感激老佛爷,并敬佩他对工作的付出。

 

 

宋茜写道:“是上帝需要一个设计师了。”

 

 

很多国内外网友都在社交媒体留言表达了自己对于这位伟大设计师离世的心痛与惋惜。

 

 

 

 

老佛爷与他的名言

 

除了时装设计,卡尔·拉格菲的“毒舌”也中外闻名。BBC和Vogue杂志等外媒总结了这位“时尚之王”的部分名言。

 

The late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld will be remembered by some as much for his barbs as his outfits.

 

在一次CNN采访中,他曾幽默诙谐地说:“我喜欢人们说糟糕的话。因为这给了我说更糟糕话的自由。”

 

 

最后,让我们一起来感受下老佛爷曾留下的话吧~

 

On himself 关于自己

 

"I am very much down to Earth. Just not this earth."

“我非常接地气。只是不是地球的地。”

 

On his early childhood 关于童年

 

"When I was four I asked my mother for a valet for my birthday."

“四岁时我曾管我妈妈要一个贴身男仆作为生日礼物。”

 

On his creative work 关于创作

 

"I have a sort of Alzheimer's for my own work, which I think is a very good thing. Today too many people remember what they did - just forget it all and start again."

“对于我自己的作品我有点老年痴呆症,而我觉得这是好事。现在太多人对自己已经做过的事记忆犹新了——全部忘掉然后重新开始吧。”

 

 

On the fashion business 关于时尚产业

 

"We created a product nobody needs, but people want. If you need an ugly old car, it can wait, but if you want a new fashion item, it cannot wait."

“我们创造人们并不需要,却想拥有的产品。如果你需要一辆丑陋的老古董汽车,可以再等等。但如果你想要一件新的时尚产品,那可等不了。”

 

On living on his own 关于独居

 

"I live in a set, with the curtains of the stage closed with no audience - but who cares?"

“我住在一个话剧布景里,舞台帷幕落下,台下没有观众——但那又怎样?”

 

(老佛爷与他的爱猫Choupette Lagerfeld)

 

On his public persona 关于公共形象

 

"I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long."

“我(在外面)就像我自己的一幅漫画,我喜欢那样。就像有个面具。对我来说威尼斯狂欢节全年无休。”

 

On sunglasses 关于墨镜

 

"They're my burka... I'm a little shortsighted, and people, when they're shortsighted, they remove their glasses and then they look like cute little dogs who want to be adopted."

“墨镜就是我的斗篷……我有点近视眼,近视眼的人摘下眼镜后,往往看起来就像摇尾乞怜的小狗。”

 

 

On fame 关于名声

 

"You cannot fight against it. There's a price you have to pay for fame, and people who don't want to pay that price can get in trouble. I accepted the idea of celebrity because of a French expression: 'You cannot have the butter and the money for the butter.'"

“你无法与之对抗。名声是要付出代价的,而不想为之付出代价的人会惹上麻烦。我接受当一个名人是因为法国的一种说法:‘你无法同时拥有黄油和买黄油的钱。’”

 

 

On self-care 关于自理

 

"Don't sacrifice yourself too much, because if you sacrifice too much there's nothing else you can give and nobody will care for you."

“不要过度牺牲自己,因为当你牺牲了太多,身上就没有可以再给予的东西了,然后就没人再关心你了。”

 

On his collaboration with H&M and relying less on cost and more on the individual's sense of style 关于与H&M合作并降低价格、更注重个人风格

 

"Chic is a kind of mayonnaise, either it tastes, or it doesn't."

“时髦就像一种蛋黄酱,津津有味或食之无味。”

 

On memoirs 关于回忆录

 

"I have nothing to say. I'm actually trying to make sure that I won't be remembered."

“这我没啥可说的。说实在的我真的有尝试确保自己不被记住。”

 

有人说,或许,最近上帝想穿新衣服了,才把卡尔·拉格斐带走了。

 

但老佛爷曾在采访中说过:“我活在今天,快乐的当下。”

 

RIP老佛爷,愿你Rest in Fashion。

 

 

综合来源:CNN,卫报,每日邮报,Vogue官网,环球网





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