有“内味儿”的螺蛳粉火出圈，歪果仁嗦粉后的反应……太真实了！

来源：央视新闻中国新闻网 CGTN South China Morning Post Seattle Times Youtube 新华社北京日报作者：21ST 日期: 2020-07-22

说到今年最火的网红食物，螺蛳粉肯定要算一个。

疫情期间，包括螺蛳粉在内的速食食品获众多食客追捧。具有辣、爽、鲜、酸、烫等风味的广西柳州“网红”小吃柳州螺蛳粉数次登上社交平台热搜榜。

那么，让无数食客如此上头的螺蛳粉，到底是怎么火起来的呢？

从路边摊到全网爆款

实际上，螺蛳粉的历史不过30多年，最开始，它只是一款便宜的当地街边小吃。上世纪70年代末，谷埠街菜市成为柳州生螺最大集散地，夜市也随之形成。由于当地人爱吃螺蛳和米粉，夜市老板便同时经营这两种食物，这便是螺蛳粉的雏形。

2008年，螺蛳粉入选广西壮族自治区非物质文化遗产名录，不过直到2012年，随着美食纪录片《舌尖上的中国》的播出，螺蛳粉才真正走进了大众视野。

图源：《舌尖上的中国》

两年后，有企业生产起了预包装螺蛳粉，让街头小吃变袋装速食。

图源：South China Morning Post 报道截图

Originating in Liuzhou in the 1970s, Luosifen served as a cheap street snack that people outside of the city knew little about.

Vendors from night markets in Gubu Street, which began popping up in the late 1970s, started cooking rice noodles and the river snails together, making luosifen a popular dish for locals. The skills for making the delicacy were listed on China’s intangible cultural heritage list in 2008.

It was not until 2012 when a hit Chinese food documentary, "A Bite of China," featured it that it became a household name. And two years later, China had the first company to sell packaged Luosifen.

不过，令螺蛳粉真正爆火出圈的，还是电商销售以及吃播博主。《2019淘宝吃货大数据报告》显示，2019年，袋装螺蛳粉共卖出2840万件，一举击败烤冷面、热干面、擀面皮等名小吃，成为最受欢迎的美食。

The development of the internet, especially the boom of e-commerce and Mukbang, has brought Luosifen fervor to a new level.

Taobao sold over 28 million luosifen packets last year, making it the most popular food item on the platform, according to the 2019 Taobao Foodstuffs Big Data Report.

而在“B站”上甚至还有专门的螺蛳粉频道，各路美食博主们都在上面分享自己制作享用螺蛳粉的过程。

图源：Bilibili

Chinese video sharing platform Bilibili has a specialist luosifen channel that has more than 12000 videos and 150 million views, with many food vloggers posting about how they cooked and enjoyed the delicacy at home during the Covid-19 lockdown.

其中最具影响力的一大博主便是李子柒，她也将自己制作螺蛳粉的视频也发到了海外社交媒体平台上，让更多歪果仁也开始了解螺蛳粉这道中华美食↓↓↓

图源：Youtube

One of the most influential is Li Ziqi, who has 11.4 million subscribers on YouTube. Her video of how to make Luosifen has gained more than 42 million views on the website.

在视频下方的评论区，不少歪果仁都馋的直流口水，还讨论起了螺蛳粉中灵魂酸笋的吃法↓↓↓

“在我们意大利梅拉诺的文化中，我们称这个为Dabong！每次我们煮这道菜时都会放些沙丁鱼和香料，相信我，真的超级超级好吃！！“

“我真的很喜欢这个视频……我在菲律宾也在吃竹笋。但在我们比沙亚语中称为‘dabong’”

“那是竹子。离李子柒住的地方不远，有很多大熊猫。我相信熊猫也想吃她做的这道含有竹笋的菜。”

歪果仁眼中的螺蛳粉

而在海外视频平台Youtube上，还有不少生活在中国的歪果仁也纷纷试吃起了螺蛳粉，隔着屏幕都能感受到这嗦粉酸爽的感觉↓↓↓

图源：Youtube

英国小哥@司徒建国Stu 还带着父母一起体验了一把螺蛳粉，没想到老两口的反应出人意料啊……

视频来源：微博@司徒建国Stu

美国《西雅图时报》的记者David Gutman去年曾专门去了趟当地唐人街试吃螺蛳粉，来感受一下这篇有“内味儿”的报道……

图源：The Seattle Times报道截图

You’ll smell the broth before you taste it.

在尝螺蛳粉之前，你会闻到一股浓郁的汤味。

It’s a sour-spicy broth made with pork bones, river snails and some 20 different kinds of herbs and spices.

酸辣味的汤由猪骨、螺蛳以及其他20种不同的香草和香料熬制而成。

It’s amber and clear, more consommé than tonkotsu. The herbs lend vegetal notes. There’s vinegar and chili that balance and temper the richness. Under it all there’s a meaty, barn yardy funk. It tastes like a farm.

汤头呈现清晰的琥珀色，比豚骨汤要清淡些。香草赋予了汤头植物的清香。醋和辣椒中和了汤头的厚重感。在这一切之下有一股浓郁的臭臭的味道，闻起来像是走进了农场。

The soup is filled with wide, round rice noodles and an abundance of toppings. Enough toppings that listing them might be tedious, but, oh well, here’s what I counted in one bowl: a soy-brined hard-boiled egg, blanched baby bok choy, pickled green beans, a chunk of braised pig trotter, crispy pork belly, roasted pork, tofu skins, bamboo shoots, scallions and wood ear mushrooms. A little dish of roasted peanuts — sprinkle on top at your leisure — comes on the side.

汤中盛满了圆粗的米线以及各式各样的配料。逐个列举配料或许有些啰嗦，但这是我在碗里看到的：一个酱油卤蛋、白灼娃娃菜、腌青豆、一块炖猪蹄、脆皮五花肉、烤猪肉、豆腐皮、竹笋、葱以及木耳。上螺蛳粉时还配着一小碟烤花生，可以按你喜好撒在粉上。

试吃完一番后，这位记者最终get到了螺蛳粉的“要义”：

But the star is really that broth. It lingers — on your taste buds, in your memory.

但是真正的明星还是（螺蛳粉的）汤，那种味道在你的味蕾间回味无穷，让你念念不忘。

火出圈的花式经营

在互联网的带动下，螺蛳粉的需求量在疫情期间也一路走高，甚至远销海外，受到越来越多国家的欢迎。

据央视财经报道，广西柳州海关监管三科主任科员黄靖兰表示，今年上半年柳州螺蛳粉，经柳州海关检验合格出口的大概有750万元人民币，是去年出口总额的8倍。

图源：央视财经视频

Exports of Luosifen, an iconic dish known for its pungent smell in the southern Chinese city of Liuzhou, registered remarkable growth in the first half of this year. A total of around 7.5 million yuan (about 1.1 million U.S. dollars) worth of Luosifen was exported from Liuzhou, southern China's Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, from January to June this year. That's eight times the total export value in 2019.

“今年几乎每周都有螺蛳粉发至美国，有一批4万包螺蛳粉刚到美国三天便销售光。”广西螺霸王食品有限公司外贸销售主管陈梓豪介绍。“目前，已接到日本、韩国、意大利等国订单，海外订单已经排至下个月。”

"We've sold Luosifen to the U.S. almost every week since this year. A recent pack of 40,000 bags were sold out in just three days in the U.S.," said Chen Zihao, sales manager of Guangxi Luobawang Food Co.,Ltd.

"We've also received orders from Japan, South Korea and Italy. Our overseas orders have been scheduled for next month," Chen added.

为了照顾到海外食客的不同口味，当地商家也对出口海外的螺蛳粉在食材上进行了调整。“经过反复试验，我们用牛骨熬制的螺蛳汤，与之前工艺熬制的螺蛳汤在味道上没有差别，深受消费者喜爱。”广西螺状元食品科技股份有限公司董事长刘清石说，公司研制出一款“牛骨金汤螺蛳粉”。这一工艺革新不仅让螺蛳粉重新打入了欧美市场，还消除了部分人的饮食禁忌，扩大了消费者群体。

Local producers have also innovated the recipes to cater to the taste of overseas foodies. "Luosifen is traditionally made from river snail soup, but we have developed a new product that uses beef bone broth while maintaining the original flavor. It was very well received," said Liu Qingshi, chairman of Liuzhou Luozhuangyuan Food Co., Ltd., a major Luosifen producer.

而为了适应螺蛳粉产业的大量需求，据《柳州日报》报道，5月28日，全国首家螺蛳粉产业学院在柳州职业技术学院揭牌。每届学生培养规模在500人左右。

图源：柳州日报

To meet the large demand for Luosifen, the first Luosifen industry vocational school opened on May 28 in Liuzhou, with the aim of training 500 students a year to become specialists in making and selling the products.

柳州市螺蛳粉协会会长倪铫阳表示：“柳州螺蛳粉产业链通过疫情进入2020年，袋装产品从60亿突破到100亿一定没有问题，目前柳州螺蛳粉日均产量超过250万袋，产业需要很多的人才。“

"The yearly sales of instant pre-packaged Luosifen noodles will soon surpass 10 billion yuan (1.4 billion U.S. dollars), compared with 6 billion yuan in 2019. Daily production now is more than 2.5 million packets. We need a large number of talents to develop the industry," said Ni Diaoyang, Liuzhou Luosifen Association chief, at the opening ceremony for the school.

除此之外，越来越多企业看中螺蛳粉的火热，跨界联名款层出不穷。

比如，据央视财经报道，一家螺蛳粉企业去年10月开始跟网红博主李子柒合作，如今，不断加单的现状让工人扩招了一倍，生产线的三分之二都用来生产与李子柒的联名款产品，该品牌的螺蛳粉销量也连带上涨。负责人告诉记者，他们这种联名款螺蛳粉3天卖出了500万包。